Rachel Roddy's recipe for couscous with sweet-and-sour aubergine and chickpeas | A kitchen in Rome

"Lick your arm, then bite." I remember being taught this by a Greek friend when I was about 10: to lick a salt-streaked forearm, then to take a bite of watermelon, enjoying how salty and sweet got on, before flinging ourselves in the sea, using the melon skin as a sort of float.