“We seldom realize, for example, that our most private thoughts and emotions are not actually our own. For we think in terms of languages and images which we did not invent, but which were given to us by our society.”
— Alan Watts
Control and surrender have to be kept in balance. That's what surfers do—take control of the situation, then be carried, then take control. In the last few thousand years, we've become incredibly adept technically. We've treasured the controlling part of ourselves and neglected the surrendering part.
What would be your perfect day?
Physically exhausted by the surf, emotionally wired creatively, feeling delirious, creating, constantly thinking, strategically high, naturally fried.